DERMAL PUNCH AT SUCHILQUITONGO OAXACA

On Thursday May 22nd, 2008 Zak Zito dermal-punched and stretched the upper parts of my ears, my flats, atop the highest pyramid of an ancient Zapotec archeological site, Suchilquitongo, in Oaxaca, Mexico. Ana Paula assisted with the placement and preparation of the procedure. Luisa and Claudia came to observe.

I had been planning to pierce and stretch my ears for some time, but was undecided between piercing my flats or my conches. After talking with several people, I decided not to get my conches punched, I did not want the piercings to affect my hearing. My other concern was the long healing time. Since I work in a glass studio and train Aikido (a Japanese martial arts), two or three months’ healing time seemed really long. Oh well, the things we do for vanity!

We intended to punch my flats during a previous weekend while we were at another set of fantastic ruins located in the mountains of Mixteca. However, due to a minor technicality, we decided to postpone punching them. The taper we brought did not match the jewelry. We planned to punch my flats at 8 mm. and stretch them to 10 mm. but the steel taper only went up to 9.5 mm. (00 gauge). The glass earlets we going to use were 10 mm.— half a millimeter larger than the taper. Damn! Hung up by half a millimeter. We decided to wait instead of making it a more intrusive procedure. It was also raining lightly, so it didn’t feel like the perfect moment.


Four days later, we were on top of another pyramid, at Suchilquitongo, getting ready to do it again. This time I manufactured some glass tapers (image to the right, click here for full-sized image) that went to a true 10 mm. They were designed to fit into the back of the glass earlets, so they would slide into the punch with one easy movement.

My attraction to ancient sites and pyramids is hard to explain. The footprints of these people and lost civilizations are everywhere in Oaxaca. Civilizations with cities, monumental architecture that align with the stars, mathematics, astronomy, writing systems, agriculture, ceramics, art, body modification, and so many lost and hidden treasures. Walking in these sites, you can’t avoid finding pottery shards, sometimes obsidian shards.
How does our modern society measure up to theirs? Cell phones, the Internet, digital cameras, satellite TVs, fancy cars, and cappuccinos. Is that really what it is all about?
The Zapotec lived in their hilltop cities for 1,500 years and then abandoned the old cities. The monumental pyramids were wind-blown and covered in dirt. Old tombs were looted or forgotten. The old cities of the Zapotecs collapsed before the Spaniards arrived.
How long do we have?

Suchilquitongo is one of my favorite sites. It’s located on a ridge just a ten-minute drive North of my glass shop. It has one of the most important tombs in Oaxaca, which was uncovered in 1985. It’s an actual house of the dead with an underground courtyard, surrounded by four rooms with painted murals and carved stella. The Zapotecs buried their relatives in tombs, literally, underneath their houses and temples so the family would not be separated even after death. The main tomb is closed to the public with huge steel doors. Last November, on the Day of the Dead, I had the remarkable opportunity to enter the tomb along with Bethra and Elayne. Some archeologists, who were visiting, opened it up and allowed us to join them, but that is another story.

The sun was already heading towards the horizon as we drove to the site after work. I was worried Zak would not to have enough light to properly mark my ears, since it is a short hike to the top of the pyramids. Someone drumming in town provided a pseudo-tribal entrance for us. I wanted to go straight to the tallest pyramid, which forms the North side of the ball court. These pyramids were built into the side of the hill in a way so you couldn’t tell where the pyramid ends and the mountain began. It is one continuous surface. The pyramid I chose is the tallest with a 360-degree panoramic view of the valley, but was just bare rock with a stone cross from the Spanish. A wind began to pick-up, as the sun got closer to the horizon line. Zak had almost stepped off, backwards, from the platform, which would have surely resulted in death or at least some severely broken bones! Together, he and Ana Paula (owner of Quetzalli Jewelry) proceeded to analyze the precise angle and placement of the dermal punches. They marked my ears with a Sharpie while discussing the irregularities and peculiarities of my ears. I could hear the sound of humming June bugs in the distance alternating with the sound of the massive swarms of mosquitoes over our heads.



Finally, I was ready for the punch. I relaxed, lying down on the rock surface with Luisa’s handbag as a pillow. It was dusk and the sun was going down, changing the horizon’s colors. I could see Monte Alban in the distance, across the valley, to the South. I entered a space of complete tranquility and surrender. On my back atop the tallest pyramid, I felt suspended—as if gravity has reversed and I might fall toward the gaping dark sky that opens above me. Breathe in, breathe out and Zak punched my left ear. There was pressure but no pain. He inserted the glass taper, stretching it to 10mm. There still isn’t pain, only a wet feeling behind my ear. I rolled over as Zak moved to my other side. Breathe in, breathe out and Zak punched the right side. Tapered and stretched, it was fast and proficient. I am surprised, in a sort of detached way, that there was no pain. I enjoyed the moment, staying on my back and looking up at Venus blazing in the West, it was dark and the stars were out.

Three days later and my ears are already healing. I was able to sleep right off on the same night they were punched. I have been doing a simple after care: keeping them clean and dry. Letting water wash over them in the shower with no soap and removing any dried blood that forms overnight. Otherwise, I haven’t touched them or have done anything to them besides than let them heal.